Insole, shoe, and method of making the same



Jan. 14, 1930. G. A. MINER INSOLE, SHOE, AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Fi'l'ed May 20, 1926 2 Sheets-SheetI l INV G50/m5 A7.

ENToR /W//VER ATTORNEYS Jan. 14, 1930. G, A, MINER 1,743,228

INSOLE, SHOE, AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed May 20. 1926 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR 4 GEORGE /Z /W//VEH .I l i BY ATTORNEYS CID Patented 1 4, 1930 UNITED STATES Pain-:NTy OFFICE l GEORGE A. MINEE, OE

EEY CORPORATION,

GLEN ROCK, NEW JERSEY, ASSIG-NOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHEN; OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY INsOLE, SHOE, AND METHOD OFWMAKING TEE SAME l Application filed May 20,

This invention relates to the art of shoemakin and particularly to welt shoes, to an insole t erefor, and to methods of making the same. It is to be understood however, that in various respects the invention is not limited to welt shoe making.

Objects of the present invention are to provide a method of making shoes by the practice of which economyT of time and material is effected, and to provide a shoe which will be light, durable, flexible, comfortable and inexpensive, the shoe including a novel insole by the use of which the method may be practiced and by incorporation of which in a shoe desirable qualities and characteristics are imparted thereto.

' A further object of the invention is to eliminate defects commonly found in welt shoes as usually made.

rThe ordinary welt shoe tends to produce a deformation of the wearers foot after it has been worn for a short while, due to its tendency to crowd the ball of the foot, and the toes, and to effect displacement of the small bones in the forward part of the foot. The shoes also frequently produce callouses due to the crowding of the ball line and the toes.

Several factors contribute to this condition. One of them is the fact that when an ordinary Welt shoe is placed on the foot, the insertion of the foot between the shoe upper and the insole exerts a strain on the inseam which tends to curl the feather of the insole upwardly, producing curling and guttering of the insole at the edges and accentuating the inseam ridge. The use ofthe ordinary welt shoe insole also fails to permit as snug and accurate a fit of the shoe at the shank as is desirable, due to the fact that the inside line of the insole shank cannot be carried in far enough under the shank of the foot to cause the upper accurately to conform to the shape of the foot.

Another factor contributing to discomfort l is the production of a ridge on the under face of the insole when the shoes are made inv accordance with conventional practice. This ridge is produced by the edge of the inside channel flap which is turned outwardly to to be* passed intothe chan- 1926. Serial No. 110,501.

nel. An attempt is sometimes made to overcome this ridge by laying the flap down and usually this flap is laid by a hand operation before theinseam is trimmed or by a machine in conjunction with the inseam trimming operation, thus eliminating theridge to some extent; but no trimming or laying operation will completely eliminate it, since the flap hinge is outermost, and when the feather of the shoe starts to curl, the ridge is accentuat- 'ed and the flexibility and comfort of the shoe are reduced. The ridge also coacts with the curling of the fea-ther to accentuate the guttering or upward deflection of the margin of the insole.

Another factor conrtibuting to the present unsatisfactory conditions outlined above, is the use of filling material between the bottom of the insole and the outer sole which is used to level the insole by filling the cavity produced by the formation of the inseam. When filling material of a plastic nature is used, the heat of the foot and the continuous transverse bendingv of the insole when the shoe is worn, cause the filling to crawl or creep, become displaced, leave no filling between the Yinsole and Outer sole at some places, and

produce lumps of filling at other places. In consequence the insole is deformed and the shoe becomes uncomfortable. This creeping or crawling of the filling also tends to accentuate the curling of the feather and the guttering of the insole near the feather line.

Withthe object of eliminating the above enumerated defects, one feature of the invention consists in .an insole having in its edge face a groove which occupies substantially the entire width of the edge face and preferably has two flat sides which meet substantially midway of the thickness of the insole, the illustrated insole having a channel Hap providing a free edge between the hinged Ledge of the flap and the marginal edge of the y edge in contact with the upper in the groove, and an inseam securing the welt and the edge of the upper in the groove, the parts being so related that the strains of the upper on the inseam will be in line with' the surface of the upper face of the groove'and will not tend to curl up the edges of the insole. Preferably the insole is provided with a continuous liap the free edge of which is located between the hinged edge of the flap and the marginal edge of the insole, and the inseam passes through the free margin of the flap as well as through the welt, upper and between-substance of the insole, the strain of the seam being thus taken by the Hap instead of by the between-substance.

In another aspect the invention comprises a method which includes cutting a channel in the insole so that the free edge of the channel flap is disposed between the hin ed edge of the flap and the edge of the inso e, working the upper into lasted position, applying a welt, and sewing through the welt, the upper, the between-substance and the channel liap of the insole, the stitches thus acting to force the channel flap back into the channel. Preferably the upper is worked into a groove in the edge face of the insole and secured. Then the edge of the welt is disposed in the groove with the upper, and the channel is utilized, by lifting the channel flap, for guid in the shoe during the sewing operation.

y the present invention, all the above noted objectionable features are eliminated. No filling is used. The insole lies flatly against the outer sole. There is no ridge, be# cause the inside channel flap is sewed down as an incident of making the inseam, leaving no projecting flap edge to cause a ridge. There is no curling of the feather because the feather is eliminated, and the upper and welt are sewed into a V-shaped channel at the edge of the insole. Better fitting at the shank is obtained due to the fact that the inside channel of the shoe of the present invention is so eut that the channel Hap is hinged at its edge remote from the outer edge of the insole, instead of at the edge Whichlis adjacent the outer edge of the insole.` In shoes constructed in accordance with the present invention, even after a long period of usage, the insole remains absolutely flat. There is no curling at the edges, or guttering, and consequently the discomfort of the present type of welt shoe is eliminated.

By the present improved method of making shoes, economy of time and material is effected. Several of the steps of the shoe manufacturing process now commonly employed are entirely eliminated, such for instance as the step of laying the channel flap and the step of applying the filling material. Economy of upper material is effectedv due to the fact that the upper is lasted into the groove at the edge Vof the insole, instead of be- (ing lasted over a feather and against a shoul- The present method also lends itself to the production of a more rugged, watertight and durable shoe, as well as a more comfortable one. One feature to be noted in this connection is the fact that by sewing the inseam through a groove inthe lateral edge of the insole, a tighter and more waterproof seam is obtained. Moreover, when in course of manufacture, the shoe is leveled, and subsequently when the edges of the insole are fiattened by walking upon them, the groove will close over the inseam, protect it against moisture and clamp it against displacement.

Many aspects of the method, as well as cerl tain features of the shoe construction are applicable to turn shoes, as well as welt shoes. The method is also applicable to the manufacture of a cheap shoe of the welt type in which light stock ora poor grade of material is used in the insole, and the insole reinforced by canvas..

To briefly summarize; a shoe constructed in l accordance with the present invention will be comfortable, flexible, economical to manufacture, durable in use, and light in weight.

These and other aspects and feature of the invention including certain novel constructions, combinations and arrangements of parts, will be more fully hereinafter set forth and pointed out in the claims. The invention will be more fully understood from the following description when read in connection with the accompanying drawings, wherein- Fig. l is a bottom plan view of an insole constructed in accordance with the present invention. 4

Fig. 2 isa transverse sectlonal v1ew on the 'line 2 2 of Fig. l.

Fig. 3 shows the improved insole on the last and the shoe upper tacked or stapled into position just before the inseam is made. n

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 3, showlng the welt piece in position and showing the relative positions of the needle, the channel vguide and the awl at the time the inseam is to.

be made.

Fig. 5 is aview similar to Fig. 4, but showing the finished inseamand the outer sole ap lied to the shoe,

igs. 6 to 11 inclusive are transverse sectional views of variousforms of insoles which ma be substituted for the insole of Fig. l, wit out departing from the invention in its broader aspects Fig. l2 is a transverse sectional` view through the shoe of the present inventlon; the dotted lines indicating the direction of strain on the inseam.

In Figs. l to 5 inclusive are illustrated the preferred method of making the shoes, and

one type of shoe which may be produced by the method. In these figures, the insole has been designated by the reference character 10, and the outer sole by the reference character 1l. The last is indicated at 12, the welt piece at 13, arid the shoe upper at 1I.

Referring first to the construction of the insole, it will be .noted that, as illustrated in Figs. 1 to 5, for example, the edge face-of the insole is recessed at 15 to produce a substantially V-shaped groove, the groove occupying substantially the entire width of the edge face with its apex midway of the thickness of the sole. The channel iap is indicated at 16 and it will be noted that this channel flap is reversely cut; that is to say, is cut in a reverse direction as compared with the usual chalmel fiap now employed. It is formed by cutting from the bottom of the inner sole outwardly toward the periphery thereof at 17, and then by cutting from th'e bottom of the cut 17 inwardly at 18 toward the center of the insole. In other words, the hinged edge of the channel flap 16 is remote from the margin of the insole, instead of adjacent thereto.

The construction of the shoe will be understood by following out the method of manufacturing the same. VIn Fig. 3 is shown the insole 10 placed upon the last 12, and the shoe upper 15 stretched over the last and secured in lasted position bytacks or staples 19 into the groove 15 in the edge of the insole. By lasting into the groove instead of over a feather, not only is a saving of upper material effected but also the tendency of the upper to wrinkle about the toe is greatly reduced because it is not carried over a feather and against a shoulder on the bottom of the insole, as is usual.

In Fig. 4 the welt piece 1?) is also shown in position, and a guide member 20 which acts as a spreader is shown with its foot 21 disposed in the channel to lift the channel flap 16. No attempt has been made to show any mechanism for operating the guide member 20, the awl 22 or the needle 23, since such mechanism will be readily understood by one familiar with the shoe sewing machine art. The guide member 20 enters and is moved step by step along the channel. After each step of the guide, the awl 22 passes through the channel flap 16, the between substance and into the groove 15 at the outer edge of the insole. As the awl is withdrawn, the needle 23 follows through the openin r made by the awl with the result that the welt piece 13 and upper 15 are attached .to the insole and the channel flap 16 is simultaneously sewed down,

so that no ridge will be produced by the chan,

nel flap. The inseam 24 which the needle producesextends through the channel flap 16 instead of only'into the channel as is the case with the present manufacturing method. The channel Hap thus takes the strain of the 4stitch instead of its being borne entirely by the between-substance of the insole. The need for trimming the channel Hap and the need for using filling material to compensate for the depth of ridge produced by the trimmed flap are eliminated, thereby expediting and cheapening the manufacturing process.

Instead of relying merely on the between substance the whole thickness of the insole is used to hold the seam, the channel Hap becoming part of the insole body after the seam is made. The channel guide 20 automatically opens the channel as the inseam'is being made, and the sewing operation automatically closes it again.

'asI

After the inseam has been formed, they outer sole 11 may be applied in the usual manner by seaming it at 26 to the welt 13. No filling material is used between the insole and the outer sole. and when the outer sole is in position it will lie iatly throughout substantially its entire width against the under face of the insole.

By lasting into the groove instead of over the feather, a true inseam line is obtained, since the thickness of the toe box becomes immaterial. Also the upper is drawn over the last which is always accurately shaped instead of over a feather which frequently varies in thickness at different points and causes an untrue shoe line at the edge of the last.

Referring now to Fig. 12 which shows a cross section of the completed shoe, it will be seen that the strain on the inseam incidental to the insertion of the wearers foot between the insole and the upper will result in a pull on the seam represented by the dotted lines. In other words, the upper will tend to pull away from the insole in a direction which is substantially parallel to the inclination of the wall of the groove 15, and will not tend to curl the edges of the insole. In a shoe having a feathered insole, it should be noted that the strain on the seam is substantially directly upwardly and results in curling the feather with consequent guttering at the feather line and accentuation of the channel flap ridge.

Figs. 6 to 11 inclusive are cross sectional views illustrating various modified types of insoles which might be substituted for the insole 10.

In Fig. 6 is shown an insole 10 with a reversely cut channel flap 16". Instead of actually grooving the outer edge of the insole to produce a V-shaped groove however, the insole is shouldered at 30 and is connected by a sloping portion31 to the inner face of the insole. The portion 31 serves substantially the function of `one of the slanting walls of the channel groove 15 in the insole 10. This type of insole is not quite as desirable as the insole 10 however, because there is nothing to effect actual gripping and binding of the seam as is the case when the insole 10 is attened out and the seam gripped and rendered more waterproach of the two walls of the groove 15.

In F ig. 7 is shown an insole 10b similar in I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters all respects to the insole 10, except that a groove b of substantially semi-circular cross section is substituted for the groove 15.

In Fig. 8 is shown a modified forni of insole 10c in which a flap 4() is turned upwardly at the outer face of the insole, this iap constituting one side of the approximately V-shaped groove 15, and serving to solidly back the inseam in the completed shoe.

In Fig. 9 is illustrated a further modified type of insole 10b in which a groove 50 in the outside face of the insole is substituted for the reversely cut channel flap. The edge of the insole is grooved at 15d similarly to the insole of Fig. 1.

Fig. 10 shows a modified type of insole 10e in which the channel flap 16" is cut in accordance with conventional practice instead of reversely cut.

Fig. 11 shows a type of insole suitable for the manufacture of cheap light-weight shoes where the insole stock is of poor grade, and a canvas reinforcing element 60 is necessary.. It will be seen that the insole 10f of Fig. 11 is in all respects similar to the insole of Fig. 1, eX- cept that the space between the cuts 17 of the channel iap is overlaid with the canvas reinforcing member. The edges of this member overlie the channel flaps 16c and when the insole of Fig. 11 is used in the manufacture of shoes, the edges of the canvas as well as the channel flaps are sewed do'wn by the process of producing the inseam.

- From the foregoing description it will be seen that the shoe satisfies the objects of the invention above outlined, and that the method is both economical and expeditious. Obviously certain steps of the method and certain features of the shoe construction are applicable equally well to either welt or turn shoes. The use lof the reversely cut channel vflap for instance and the method of sewing the channel flapv down are features which may be applied to welt or-turn shoes with equal vfacility and with beneficial results in both cases. The reverse cutting of the channel flap and the elimirtionbf the feather permit the shank of the insole to be considerably narrower than is customary in the case of welt shoe manufacture, consequently permitting a tighter and more comfortable fit at the shank of the shoe, reducing the weight'of the shoe andgiving to a Welt shoe certain advantageous features hereinbefore found only in turn shoe's.

Great iexibility, lightness in weight, and a material increase in comfort to the wearer are obtained. i

Obviously various changes and alterations may be made both in the method of making the shoes and in the-shoes themselves within the spirit and scope of the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what Patent of the United States is Y 1. An insole having a groove in its lateral edge into which an upper is adapted to be 'zo lasted and including a channel flap at its outer face providing a free edge arranged between .the hinged edge of the flap and the marginal edge of the insole.

2. An insole provided with a single channel flap so cut that the free edge thereof is disposed between the hinged edge thereof and the edge of the insole, the outer face of the insole being overlaid with a canvas reinforce ment, the edges of which overlie the edge of the fiap, and are adapted to be sewed down to the body of the insole together with the fla d). In a shoe construction, a sole having a continuous channel flap, an upper, and an inseam connecting the sole and the upper, passing through the between-substance of the sole, vpenetrating the channel flap, and acting to secure the flap as a whole down in its channel.'

4. A shoe including an insole having a groove in its edge face the mouth of Which is as wide as the full thickness of the insole, an upper having its edge disposed in the groove, a welt having its inner edge in contactwith thev upper, and an inseam securing the welt and the edge of the upper in the groove whereby strains of the upper on the seam will be in linewith the surface of the upper side of the groove and will not tend to curl the edges of the insole.

5. A shoe comprising an insole having a groove in its edge face substantially V-shaped in cross-section, one wall of the groove being disposed in a plane substantially coincident with thedirection of pulling stress on the inseam, said insole having on its outer face a flap the margin of which is located toward the edge of the insole from the hinged edge thereof, an upper, a welt disposed in the groove of the insole, and an inseam securing together the welt, the upper, the between-substance of the insole and the margin of the channel flap adjacent to its free edge.

6. A welt shoe including an insole having a groove in its lateral edge and an outer sole lying flatly against the flat outer face of .the insole, an upper and a welt secured to the 'insole by an inseam entering the groove in the lateral edge of the insole, said insole in-f by a seam passing through'the.

that the seam acts to hold the channel flap as a Whole in its channel. i

8. The method of making shoes which includes the steps of lchanneling the` insole to form a channel flap so that the free edge thereof is disposed between the hinged edge thereof and the edge of thc insole, forming a groove in the edge face of the insole, fastening the edge of the upper in said groove, running a guiding tool under the channel flap to open the channel, passing an awl through the channel flap and between-substance and into the groove, and sewing through the avvl holes to hold the channel flap down as an incident' of the attachment of the upper and the insole.

9. An insole for Welt shoes having a groove in its edge face, the mouth ot the groove'being of a Width equal to the thickness of the insole, the groove tapering'toward its bottom and the apex of the groove being located substantially midway of the thickness of the sole, said insole having on its outer face a channel cut extending first from the outer face oi? the insole inwardly at an inclination toward its edge face and then toward the center of the insole substantially parallel to its bottom face.

10. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing an insole having a channel flap with its free margin disposed toward the edge of the insole, lasting the upper against the edge face of the' insole, applying a Welt, and sewing together the Welt,vupper, insole and channel flap by a seam passing through the edge face of the insole.

11. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing an insole having a channel flap with its free margin disposed toward the edge of the insolecand having a groovein its edge face, lasting an upper into the groove, applying a welt in the groove with the upper, l and sewing through the Welt, the upper, the betweensubstance of the insole and the free marginal portion of the channel ap.

12. That improvement in methods of making`shoes which includes forming an insole with a groove inV its edge face and with a channel 'lap having its free edge directed outwardly, securing an upper in lasted condition in the groove of the insole, applying a Welt, lifting the channel iap, utilizing the channel for guiding the'shoe, and sewing a seam to secure the upper and Welt to the edge face of the sole and the channel flap back in its channel.

GEORGE A. MINER. 

